Level 1 sweep and inspection to the NFPA 211 annual standard - flue, crown, cap, and flashing checked and photographed
Chimney sweep logs do not sweep chimneys. They loosen some creosote - which then falls where a brush and vacuum still have to collect it.
Olympia Chimney Flue Liner Replacement: The Lawrence Owner’s Guide
We stock and install Olympia Chimney-compatible flue liner replacement parts for Lawrence homes, with most jobs running $900-$2,400 installed depending on the liner diameter, length, and whether we’re doing a full tear-out or a slip-in reline. We keep the common sizes on the truck, so if your liner has cracked, separated, or started shedding, we can usually get eyes on it and a quote to you the same visit.

Most Lawrence homeowners find out about a flue liner failure the hard way: water stains on the ceiling near the chase, a smell of smoke even when the damper is closed, or a Level 2 camera inspection that shows the liner has finally given out after twenty or thirty winters of heating cycles and salt air. The liner is the chimney’s working part. The brick and stone around it are just the jacket. When the liner goes, the chimney is no longer doing its one job: carrying heat and combustion gases up and out without cooking the house around it.
Key takeaways:
- We install Olympia Chimney-compatible liners and stock the common sizes for Lawrence jobs.
- Installed pricing typically runs $900-$2,400 here depending on liner spec and access.
- If your liner is failing, the fix is replacement, not patching. We’ll show you camera footage either way.
- Free estimates: call (516) 604-2573 and Wendell or his crew will come out.
Which Olympia Chimney Models This Applies To
Olympia Chimney makes rigid and flexible stainless steel liner systems sold under a few different product names, but the ones we see most often in Lawrence basements and fireplaces are their flexible 316L and 316Ti alloy liners, usually in 4″, 5″, 6″, or 7″ diameters. If your liner has an Olympia Chimney label still readable on the ridge or the connector, that’s the easiest way to identify what you have. If the label is gone, which is common after a decade or two, we measure the inner diameter and check the liner wall thickness with a micrometer before we quote anything.
Here’s a compatibility gotcha worth knowing: Olympia Chimney flexible liners are built to UL 1777, which means they’re rated for residential chimneys, but not all Olympia liners are the same alloy. The 316L alloy is fine for wood and pellet burning. If you’re burning gas in Lawrence, we’d rather put in a 316Ti or the Olympia aluminum liner for gas-only, because the titanium-stabilized alloy holds up better against the acidic condensation gas appliances produce. Mix that up and you’ll be replacing the liner again in half the time. We won’t make that mistake, and we’ll explain the alloy choice to you in plain English before we order anything.
We also carry equivalent parts from DuraFlex, HeatShield, and Gelco, so if your existing liner is an Olympia Chimney but a full-match part isn’t the smart choice for your setup, we’ll say so and offer the alternative that actually fits. Top Hat Chimney is an independent service provider, not affiliated with Olympia Chimney, so our loyalty is to what works for your house, not to a catalog number.
Signs Your Olympia Chimney Flue Liner Replacement Is Failing
Flue liners don’t fail silently forever. Here are the five signs we see on Lawrence service calls, and what’s actually going on behind each one:
- Flakes of metal in the firebox or cleanout. Stainless liners shed thin rust flakes as the alloy breaks down from years of heat cycling and acidic creosote. Once you see flakes, the liner wall is thinning and it’s past the point of ignoring.
- Smoke smell in the house when the stove or fireplace isn’t lit. A cracked or separated liner lets stale smoke and odor bleed back into the wall cavity or the room. The flue isn’t drawing; it’s leaking.
- Water stains on the ceiling or wall near the chimney. A failed liner often pairs with a failed top plate or crown, letting rain straight down the flue. In Lawrence, where we get real nor’easters and freeze-thaw cycles every winter, that water does damage fast.
- White or brown staining on the exterior brick below the chimney cap. That’s creosote or condensation wicking through the masonry because the liner is no longer containing the flue gases. It’s a masonry symptom, but the liner is usually the root cause.
- The damper won’t stay clean, or rust is building up around it. Excess moisture and acidic residue inside the flue show up at the damper first, since it’s the lowest accessible point. If the damper looks like a rust bucket, the liner above it is likely shot too.
If you’re seeing one of these, get it looked at. The good news is that a camera inspection takes about thirty minutes and you’ll see the exact problem with your own eyes before we ever recommend a replacement.
Replacement Cost & What’s Included
For Lawrence homes, a full Olympia Chimney flue liner replacement installed by our crew usually lands between $900 and $2,400. Lower end: a short, easy-access 4″ or 5″ flexible liner, no scaffolding, no masonry repair, furnace or water heater venting. Higher end: a two-story 7″ liner for a wood stove or fireplace, with a new top plate, rain cap, and some crown work, or a liner that’s so baked and swollen that we’re pulling it out in pieces rather than clean sections.
Here’s what drives the range:
- Liner diameter and alloy. 316Ti runs a little more than 316L, but for gas it’s worth it. Bigger diameter costs more per foot.
- Length and access. A one-story ranch in Lawrence is a shorter pull than a two-story colonial with a steep roof. Access matters more than most people think.
- Condition of the existing liner. If the old liner comes out clean, the job is straightforward. If it’s rust-welded or collapsed, we’re earning our keep.
- Top plate, cap, and connector work. A liner replacement isn’t complete without a proper top plate and connector at the appliance. We include those in the quote, not as add-ons after the fact.
Every liner job includes the parts, labor, full camera inspection after the install, and the 90-Day Done Right Promise in writing. If something’s not right, one call brings us back at no charge. We also honor $40 off any repair over $200, a free second opinion on any written estimate, and 10% off for seniors and veterans, every day.
DIY or Call Us?
Installing a flue liner isn’t a weekend project, and we’re not going to pretend it is. This is a safety-critical component. A badly installed liner can send carbon monoxide back into the living space, and carbon monoxide doesn’t give you a warning. If that sounds dramatic, it’s because the stakes are real. This is the part of the chimney where a mistake isn’t a cosmetic problem.
What you can safely check yourself: look for the flakes and staining described above, check that your chimney cap is still tight on top, and see if you can read any label on the liner where it connects to the appliance. That’s enough to tell us what we’re dealing with on the phone. What you shouldn’t try: pulling a liner out of a flue yourself, buying an unverified liner online that claims to be Olympia-compatible, or re-using connectors and top plates that have already seen twenty years of service. We’ve had to fix enough DIY liner installs to know the pattern. If it’s clean, we’ll tell you it’s clean, and if it’s shot, we’ll show you the video and let you decide from there.
Call (516) 604-2573 and get someone who can actually talk about the liner, not a call-center script.
FAQs
A properly installed 316L or 316Ti liner typically lasts 15 to 25 years in our climate, but the salt air, freeze-thaw cycles, and how you burn all have a say. The liner is the one part of the chimney that actually takes the heat, so when it’s done, it’s done. Call us for a camera inspection if yours is past fifteen years old.
For stainless steel liners, the honest answer is almost always no. Once a liner has cracked, separated at a seam, or thinned to the point of flaking, patching it is a false economy. A patch doesn’t restore the liner’s continuous seal, and the next failure tends to be worse. We’ll tell you plainly if replacement is unnecessary, but when the metal is gone, the fix is a new liner.
Most single-family liner replacements take a crew four to six hours, including the pre-install camera check, the pull, the new liner install, the top plate and connector work, and the final camera pass to confirm it’s seated properly. We give you a real arrival window and call if it slips, which happens about as rarely as we can manage.
We keep the common diameters on the truck, and we also stock equivalent DuraFlex, HeatShield, and Gelco liners, so we’re not waiting on a freight delivery to get your chimney safe again. If your job needs a size or alloy we don’t have on hand, we’ll tell you the lead time before we schedule anything. Call (516) 604-2573 and we’ll let you know what’s available.
Written by Wendell Pike, Owner, Top Hat Chimney at Top Hat Chimney, serving Lawrence and nearby areas.





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